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Posts Tagged ‘farmers markets’

So today, the international team of scientists on the Tomato Gene Consortium (yes, that’s a real thing) have made headlines for what Reuters calls, cracking “the genetic code of the domesticated tomato and its wild ancestor, an achievement which should help breeders identify the genes needed to develop tastier and more nutritious varieties.”

“Nooo, not the gene-splicer!”

The article goes on to state that, “Tomatoes represent a $2 billion market in the United States alone, while in Britain the market for tomatoes is worth around 625 million pounds ($980 million) a year.”

Meanwhile, a similar think-tank at the University of Florida believes that the secret to a great-tasting tomato lies in “a dozen or so volatile compounds,” according to ABC Science. The scientific team “examined 152 types of ‘heirloom’ varieties to determine what makes the best-tasting tomato.”

The result findings are that a specific type of apocarotenoid (geek-speak for “organic compound”) makes tomatoes taste sweeter, rather than higher levels of sugar, as previously thought.

So it shouldn’t be surprising that “the team are now breeding tomatoes that produce more apocarotenoids to look for a genetic link to flavor. Explained one of the researchers, “Consumers care deeply about tomatoes. One could do worse than to be known as the person who helped fix flavor.”

Yes, one could do worse. Like be a scientist trying to justify needlessly fucking with our food supply in order to fulfill demand from BigAg, and wholesalers and retailers unconcerned with the effects of unnecessary GMO foods. Or do pointless things like genetically engineer hybrid tomatoes to taste like heirloom tomatoes.

The irony behind these statements and studies is that heirloom tomatoes–as well as other antique varieties of produce–first made a reappearance in the marketplace (aka farmers markets) because consumers longed for fruit that tasted like “the real thing,” and were increasingly accepting of the fact that out-of-season produce isn’t all it’s cracked up to be.

In the last decade, heirloom tomatoes have gone about as mainstream as an heirloom crop–one that hasn’t been genetically altered with to withstand the rigors of long-distance transport and is bred for durability and shelf-life, rather than flavor–possibly can. Once found only at farmers markets, they now populate the produce department of even some mainstream grocery chains, for a premium price, of course (I’m not saying this is a bad thing).

Heirloom crops fell by the wayside in the early to mid-20th century, because they were bred for flavor, not looks or longevity. With the backlash in GMO foods came a revival of heirloom foods. This is in part due to the concern amongst small-scale farmers and savvy consumers that relying upon a handful of hybridized crops is a great way to destroy genetic diversity, and set us up for a global famine should disease or pesticide-resistance (thanks, Monsanto) result in widespread crop failure.

Why are scientists receiving funding that’s ultimately about destroying the progress small farms and the marketplace have made over the last decade?  There are many ways to use GMO”s for the good of humanity (increasing specific nutrient contents in crops grown in regions plagued by deficient soil, creating crops more resistant to drought, etc.), not wallet-padding.

[Photo love: Flickr user tankgirls]

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Aah, spring. The first tender buds are unfurling on the trees; crocuses and daffodils push their bright heads up through the damp soil. The music of birdsong is audible once again.

Photo love: Flickr user Stellas mom

Despite all that, the weather is still utter shit here in Seattle, and frankly, I’m fucking over it. I’m hearing about spring break (college town, after all), and I’m still wearing my Uggs and pj’s in the house and huddling in a blanket to stay warm (Welcome to the world of self-employment; looking presentable unnecessary).

Needless to say, many farmers in these parts have had a tough winter, what with Snowmageddon and all, so aside from heaps of brassicas, there’s not much inspiration to be had at the farmer’s market.

But at least I can provide you with a recipe that speaks of spring. Not that smoked trout really reminds me of the vernal equinox, but whatevs. I came up with this salad for a cooking demo I did at the San Francisco Ferry Building Farmers Market, based upon what was available from the vendors at this time of year. Hence the smoked trout–not something I’d ordinarily gravitate toward–and watermelon radish. Turns out, it’s a lovely concoction, full of contrasting textures and flavors. Try it; you’ll see.

SMOKED TROUT, GRAPEFRUIT & WATERMELON RADISH SALAD

serves 4

Vinaigrette

2 T. Champagne vinegar

salt, to taste

2 t. finely minced shallot

2 T. lemon juice

1/3 c. extra virgin olive oil, or to taste

5 c. baby arugula or watercress

2 medium pink grapefruit or two medium blood oranges, segmented

one medium watermelon radish, sliced crosswise as thinly as possible

¼ lb. smoked trout (about one fillet), flaked into chunks

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For vinaigrette:  Place the shallot, Champagne vinegar and a pinch salt together in a small bowl and let macerate for at least 10 minutes and up to one hour to mellow the flavor of the shallot.  Add the remaining ingredients, whisking to combine. Adjust seasoning if necessary.

For the salad: When ready to serve, rewhisk the vinaigrette, and place the arugula, citrus segments, and radish in a large bowl. Toss with vinaigrette (note you may not need to use all of it; better to add too little than too much).

Arrange mound of arugula on each of four chilled salad plates, adding several citrus segments and slices of radish. Top with some of the smoked trout.  Season with a twist of freshly ground black pepper.

© The Sustainable Kitchen®, 2004

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